Best In Season with Nicholas Balfe - April
Spring is here!
April is the time that those ‘hungry gap’ staples finally give way to green shoots and the real signs of seasonal change here in the UK. After months of peeling parsnips, dicing celeriac and pulling thick, spiny leaves from sturdy, overwintered cabbages, by this time I’m gagging for vibrant energy and new life.
The first delivery of English asparagus has always felt like a big moment in the culinary calendar. It’s something I’ve felt in almost every kitchen I’ve worked in. Such an elegant vegetable; subtle yet complex in flavour, bursting with minerality.
There’s fair logic in keeping asparagus dishes simple. Just a knob of butter and a squeeze of lemon is one of the most joyful expressions, but I also think it’s important to add value when cooking dishes in a professional setting. This dish elevates the core ingredients with some unusual touches, whilst still giving space for those distinct flavours to sing.
This dish reflects a moment of spring ingredients beginning to coalesce. Lighter than the previous months, a touch more composed, and built around clarity rather than comfort.
Asparagus, the star of the show
At the beginning of the season, we source our asparagus from the New Forest. It usually lands just a little earlier than the Wye Valley spears, which are often thicker and sturdier. Availability is fleeting - with the last pick happening no later than mid summer’s day. So there’s always a sense of immediacy in menu planning when asparagus arrives. Dishes were asparagus is a hero, rather than just a garnish always feel like a win for me.
The asparagus is handled in two distinct ways. Some are grilled, just enough to bring sweetness and a little char while keeping its structure. The rest is shaved raw into ribbons and crisped in iced water so it curls and brings freshness and bite.
Together, they give contrast. Cooked and raw, soft and crisp, warm and cool. It is a simple approach, but one that allows the ingredient to show itself without interference. Everything else on the plate is there to support that.
Complex acidity
The goat’s curd comes from White Lake Dairy, just outside Shepton Mallet. It is clean, lactic and lightly acidic. It brings a complex tang that whilst rich, cuts through the other components bringing balance to the dish.
It’s whipped with lemon, garlic and sea salt, just enough to lighten it slightly whilst still holding shape. It sits to the side, allowing it to be drawn into each bite rather than carrying the dish in every mouthful.
Vegetal flavours
Lovage carries an unashamedly bold flavour, and must be used sparingly. Blending into an emulsion rounds out the flavour, whilst a fine chifonade keeps things fresh.
The emulsion is made by extracting a vivid oil from the leaves, then blending to form a mayonnaise. It’s herbaceous, slightly bitter and carries enough acidity to sharpen the plate without overwhelming it. Just a few dots of this is enough to make the dish really pop.
A Natural Finish
This is a lighter dish, but full of verdant flavour and just enough indulgence. It’s natural, yet composed, with spring ingredients layering upon one another, both literally and figuratively. As well as the asparagus lovage, chervil bring anise notes, whilst three cornered leek flowers give a mild allium twang.
The brick pastry provides structure. Fried until crisp and lightly curled, it replaces puff pastry with something finer and more delicate. It gives height and texture without adding weight.
There is a clear influence here, something of the New Nordic approach in the natural colours and the way the plate is composed. It remains rooted in local produce and straightforward cooking.
Asparagus Millefeuille, Lovage & Goat’s Curd
Serves 10
Crisp Brick Pastry
Ingredients
10 sheets brick pastry
Neutral oil (for frying)
Fine sea salt
Method
Fry at 180°C until golden and crisp, allowing natural movement and slight curl.
Drain well and season lightly while warm. Snap into irregular rectangles, 8-10cm x 4cm. Store airtight.
Lovage Oil
Ingredients
150g lovage
300ml neutral oil
Method
Blanch, refresh and squeeze dry.
Blend with oil in a Robot Coupe until smooth, allowing temperature to rise to ~85°C to fix colour.
Pass and chill immediately.
Lovage Emulsion
Ingredients
50g pasteurised egg yolks
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp white wine vinegar
250ml lovage oil
Salt
Method
Blend yolks, mustard and vinegar.
Slowly stream in lovage oil to form a smooth emulsion, it should be ‘tight’ enough to hold itself when piped. Transfer to a piping bag and set aside for service.
Whipped Goat’s Curd
Ingredients
700g goat’s curd
Zest of 1 lemon
1 small clove garlic, finely grated
Fine sea salt
2 tbsp olive oil
Method
Fold in lemon, garlic and oil. Season. Whisk until smooth and lightly aerated.
Chill until required, but ensure it is at room temperature before serving - this will produce a better quinelle.
Grilled Asparagus
Ingredients
1.5kg / 20 spears English asparagus
Lemon juice
Olive oil
Salt
Chopped lovage
Mixed soft herbs
Method
Grill until just tender with light charring.
Cool, then cut into short lengths.
Toss lightly with herbs. Don’t season with lemon juice and salt until you are ready to serve, or the asparagus and herbs will discolour.
Raw Asparagus & Garnish
Ingredients
6–8 asparagus spears
Three-cornered leek flowers
Chervil
Method
Shave asparagus into ribbons and set aside in iced water for at least 30 minutes - this makes the ribbons crisp and curl up. Drain and pat dry before serving.
Pick herb fronds and flowers.
Service & Assembly
Have all elements ready. Build à la minute.
Plating
Layer brick pastry with asparagus and a little dots of lovage emulsion as well as small blobs of goat’s curd, keeping the structure light and irregular. Be aware of the balance of flavours - you don’’t want the lovage and goat’s curd to overpower the asparagus.
Finish with shaved asparagus, herbs and flowers.
Place a quenelle of goat’s curd to the side.
Spoon a little lovage emulsion around the plate — restrained.
Serve immediately.