Best In Season with Nicholas Balfe - October

 
 
 

Marrow

The much misunderstood marrow. Is it simply an overgrown courgette, or a vegetable in its own right? Technically they are one and the same, stemming from the same branch of the cucurbit family, which also includes squash, melons and cucumbers. Courgettes are picked young, while marrows are simply allowed to mature.

My knowledge of gardening is limited, and I would not describe my fingers as particularly green, but I do know that courgettes seem to be extraordinarily prolific when the conditions suit them. Keeping up with the fruits of even a few plants can feel almost impossible. And yes, botanically speaking, courgettes and marrows are fruits.

We have three courgette plants in our south-facing garden and, following a summer like the one we’ve just had, they’ve been swelling with bulbous offspring that seem to appear almost overnight. Put it this way, we’ve had a lot of courgettes on the menu.

Part of the problem with marrow is its reputation. For many people it conjures up memories of huge watery vegetables, stuffed and baked until falling apart. It’s the kind of thing your nan might have made, but you wouldn’t necessarily have enjoyed.

I’ve rarely even seen marrow in a restaurant setting, aside from once upon a time on the specials board at the Anchor & Hope in Waterloo. Theirs was treated masterfully, with a deeply savoury layer of mince and a cloud of Simon Hopkinson-esque béchamel, so fluffy it could almost have been a soufflé. That was sometime in the early 2000s. Surely it’s time for a comeback?

This application couldn’t be more different. Long braises and dairy-heavy sauces are set aside in favour of something more contemporary, although no less delicious for it.

Here, the marrow is sliced into thin half-moons and coated in a light tempura batter flavoured with black and white sesame. The marrow steams inside the batter as it cooks, becoming soft and almost creamy while the outside stays crisp.

We serve it with a ponzu-style vinaigrette made with tamari, mirin and rice vinegar. There’s a Somerset twist in there too, as we use a dash of raw cider vinegar, which adds a bright, fruity dimension alongside all those savoury notes.

It’s a simple dish, but the combination of hot, crisp batter, tender marrow and salty, tangy dressing makes something much more interesting out of an ingredient that is too often overlooked.

If you see a marrow at a farm shop or greengrocer this autumn, give it another chance. It might technically be an overgrown courgette, but that doesn’t mean it deserves to be stuffed with mince and forgotten about.

MARROW IN TEMPURA WITH SESAME PONZU

Serves 10 as a snack or starter 

For the Ponzu Vinaigerette

Ingredients 

  • 200ml tamari

  • 100ml mirin

  • 30ml rice wine vinegar

  • 60ml raw apple cider vinegar

  • 100ml sesame oil

  • A pinch of xanthan gum, to emulsify (optional)

Method 

  1. Combine the tamari, mirin, rice wine vinegar and apple cider vinegar. Whisk in the sesame oil, adding a small pinch of xanthan gum if you want the dressing emulsified. Alternatively, leave out the xanthan and simply whisk before serving for a looser, split dressing.

For the Tempura

Ingredients 

  • 150g gluten-free self-raising flour

  • 150g cornflour

  • Approximately 300ml very cold sparkling water

  • Fine salt

  • 1 tsp black sesame seeds

  • 1 tsp white sesame seeds

  • 1 medium marrow

  • Neutral oil, for deep-frying

Method 

  1. Peel the marrow if the skin is particularly tough, although you shouldn’t need to earlier in the season. Cut it in half lengthways and remove the soft, seedy centre, then slice the flesh into thin half-moons.

  2. Mix the gluten-free flour and cornflour together and season with salt and the black and white sesame seeds. Shortly before frying, lightly mix in the sparkling water. Don’t overwork it. You’re looking for a loose batter that will just coat the marrow.

  3. Heat the frying oil to around 180°C. Dip the marrow into the batter, allow any excess to fall away and fry in batches until crisp and lightly golden. The marrow should be completely tender inside.

  4. Drain well and season immediately with a little fine salt.

  5. Spoon the sesame ponzu vinaigrette into a small bowl and serve alongside the hot tempura for dipping.

 

 
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