Best In Season with Nicholas Balfe - June
Pea & broad bean agnolotti, preserved lemon & Somerset pecorino
Why this dish, right now?
June is when the kitchen shifts into a different gear. The first real abundance of green produce arrives, and dishes can become lighter, brighter and more immediate. But even with that sense of summer, there is always time for pasta.
These agnolotti deliver that carby, dopamine-rich comfort, while still retaining the lightness of the season. English peas and broad beans are just coming into their stride, bringing a natural sweetness and freshness. Folded through ricotta from our friends at Westcombe, then served in a butter emulsion enriched with Somerset pecorino and lifted with preserved lemon, the result is a dish that feels generous yet balanced, rich but still full of energy.
Seasonality & provenance
Both peas and broad beans are fleeting. While the Italian season stretches earlier and longer, the window for UK-grown varieties is short, and their quality drops off quickly once they pass their best. Sourcing them fresh and using them promptly is key.
We’re lucky to have some very productive plants in our garden, which thrive in the sheltered, south-facing aspect. The challenge is keeping the pigeons off them long enough to get to the pods ourselves. Once our own patch is done, we look to Pitney Farm Market Garden, or to our friend Steve and his biodynamic polytunnels in nearby Lopenhead.
There’s no getting around the fact that podding, and double podding in the case of broad beans, is time consuming. But it’s part of the rhythm of the season. It’s a good moment to slow down, bring the team together, or just get your head down and enjoy the process.
The ricotta forms the backbone of the filling, so it’s worth using something with real character. A well-made Somerset pecorino brings salinity and depth, while preserved lemon adds a gentle acidity that lifts everything.
Flavour & balance
The balance is quite deliberate. Sweetness from the peas and beans, richness from the ricotta and butter, and a clean, sharp edge from the preserved lemon.
The pasta is rolled thin and folded, so it stays delicate and lets the filling take the lead. The sauce is emulsified rather than reduced, so it coats rather than weighs down. It clings lightly to the pasta and the just-cooked legumes, giving a glossy finish without heaviness.
A loose scattering of herbs brings freshness and texture, so each mouthful feels slightly different.
The art of fresh pasta
The agnolotti is fairly simple shape to learn, but of course, slightly harder to master. Filling is piped down a long roll of pasta before being folded over and pinched to form ‘little pillows’. With a serrated pasta cutting wheel, a large floured bench and bit of self confidence (!) it’s possible to knock out a fair few portions of these in one fell swoop, making it a good shape for to manage a busy service environment; impressive, but not too intricate.
The pasta needs to be rolled thin, as it’s folded and effectively doubled. The filling should be soft but not wet, with enough structure to hold its shape. Cooking is quick, often no more than a minute.
If you’re cooking this in a more controlled setting, you can build the sauce ahead of time and stabilise it with a small amount of xanthan gum. Otherwise, it comes together very quickly in the pan using butter and pasta cooking water.
As ever, timing and restraint are everything.
Serving & finishing
With everything in place, the dish comes together very quickly. Warm the podded peas and broad beans gently in the butter emulsion while the agnolotti cook.
Drain the pasta and fold through the sauce, adding a splash of preserved lemon brine to sharpen. Finish with a light vinaigrette of fresh lemon, diced preserved lemon and good olive oil, used to dress a mix of soft herbs and leaves.
The result should feel fluid and light, with the sauce just coating the pasta rather than sitting heavily in the bowl.
In the kitchen at Holm
Folded pasta is something we return to often. It allows for speed and consistency in service, while still feeling generous and considered.
This dish fits comfortably into that approach. It’s adaptable, scalable and rooted in the season, which is exactly where we want to be at this time of year.
Pea & Broad Bean agnolotti with preserved lemon and pecorino
Serves 10
Pasta dough
Ingredients
300g 00 flour
3 whole eggs (approx. 150g)
1 egg yolk (20g)
10g olive oil
Pinch of salt
Method
Mix the flour and salt on a clean work surface, make a well and add the eggs, yolk and olive oil.
Bring together into a dough, kneading for 8–10 minutes until smooth and elastic.
Wrap and rest for at least 1 hour at room temperature.
Ricotta, pea & broad bean filling
Ingredients
250g ricotta (Westcombe if possible)
175g peas, podded and lightly crushed
75g broad beans, podded, peeled and lightly crushed
25g Somerset pecorino, finely grated
8g pasteurised egg yolk
Zest of half a lemon
Salt to taste
Method
Lightly crush the peas and broad beans so you retain texture.
Combine with the ricotta, pecorino, egg yolk and lemon zest.
Mix gently until just combined.
Taste and adjust seasoning. The mixture should be soft, fresh and just holding together.
Preserved lemon vinaigrette
Ingredients
20g preserved lemon flesh, finely diced
50g good olive oil
15g lemon juice
Method
Whisk together until lightly emulsified. Set aside.
Wild garlic oil (optional)
Ingredients
100g neutral oil
50g wild garlic leaves
Method
Blend oil and wild garlic until smooth, then heat to approximately 85°C to fix the colour.
Pass through a fine sieve and chill.
To finish
Ingredients
100g unsalted butter
50g finely grated Somerset pecorino
Splash of preserved lemon brine
100g peas, podded
80g broad beans, podded and peeled
Mixed soft herbs (pea shoots, chervil, mint)
Salt
Agnolotti assembly
Roll the pasta dough through a machine to around 1.25mm thickness.
Pipe or spoon a line of filling along the sheet.
Fold the pasta over, pressing out any air, then seal firmly.
Pinch along the length to form individual pillows, then cut with a fluted wheel.
Keep lightly floured and covered until ready to cook.
Cooking
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil.
In a wide pan, melt the butter and add a ladle of pasta cooking water to create a light emulsion.
Cook the agnolotti for 60–90 seconds until just tender.
At the same time, warm the peas and broad beans gently in the butter emulsion.
Transfer the agnolotti into the pan and toss carefully.
Add the pecorino and a small splash of preserved lemon brine, shaking the pan to emulsify into a glossy sauce.
Service & plating
Spoon into warm bowls with plenty of the butter emulsion.
Dress the herbs lightly with the preserved lemon vinaigrette and arrange over the pasta.
Finish with a few drops of wild garlic oil.
The dish should feel light and fluid, with the sauce just coating the pasta rather than sitting heavily in the bowl.