Best In Season with Nicholas Balfe - July

Blueberry & Wigmore Cheesecake

Why this, why now?

July is one of the best months of the year for British soft fruit. While strawberries often grab the headlines, blueberries are reaching their peak too, offering a wonderful balance of sweetness, acidity and depth of flavour.

Their season is relatively short, which makes them worth celebrating while they're at their best. We source ours from the Wye Valley, where the berries develop excellent sweetness while retaining the freshness that makes summer fruit so appealing.

At Holm, we're always looking for ways to showcase seasonal ingredients in dishes that people genuinely want to eat. A blueberry cheesecake feels universally appealing, with a slightly retro feel, making it a fun starting point for a restaurant-quality dish that’s easy to execute in volume.

The starting point

While this is technically a New York-style cheesecake, the inspiration came from a very different place.

I remember seeing a cheesecake on a Michelin-starred menu several years ago that incorporated Vacherin, a rich and intensely flavoured cheese. At the time, the idea of using something so savoury in a sweet dessert felt completely counterintuitive.

The more I thought about it, however, the more sense it made. Cheese and sweetness have always worked well together, whether that's cheddar with apples or Stilton alongside a glass of jammy port. A cheesecake simply provides another way of exploring that relationship.

This recipe takes that idea and moves it in a slightly gentler direction.

The role of Wigmore

Instead of Vacherin, I've chosen Wigmore, a soft sheep's milk cheese produced by Village Maid Cheese in Berkshire.

Wigmore still brings complexity and character, but in a more restrained way. Its delicate lactic notes and subtle savouriness complement the cream cheese and white chocolate without overwhelming them.

The result is a cheesecake that feels familiar at first bite, but reveals a little more depth as you eat. The richness of the filling is balanced by a gentle savoury note running through the background, creating something that feels both comforting and refined.

Texture matters

One of the reasons I prefer this style of cheesecake is the contrast in textures.

The biscuit base provides a substantial crunch beneath the smooth, creamy filling, while the blueberry compote adds softness and intensity. Every element has a purpose and together they create a dessert that feels far more balanced than sweetness alone.

I like to make the base relatively thick, ensuring you get a satisfying crunch with every bite.

Taking it one step further

The cheesecake and compote are perfectly capable of standing on their own, but the blueberry sorbet takes the dish a step further.

Its bright acidity cuts through the richness of the filling while reinforcing the flavour of the fruit. A touch of citric acid gives freshness without introducing the flavour of lemon, allowing the blueberries to remain centre stage.

It's an optional component, but one that transforms a simple cheesecake into something a little more memorable.

Chef's Tips

Bake the cheesecake gently and resist the temptation to overcook it.

The centre should still retain a slight wobble when removed from the oven.

Allow the cheesecake to cool completely before refrigerating overnight.

Remove from the fridge 15-20 minutes before serving for the best texture.

Use a hot knife for clean, neat slices.

The sorbet isn't essential, but it adds freshness, contrast and a more polished finish.

BLUEBERRY & WIGMORE CHEESECAKE

Serves 12

For the cheesecake

Ingredients

For the base

250g digestive biscuits

125g unsalted butter, melted

For the filling

375g white chocolate, melted

375g Wigmore cheese, rind removed

375g full-fat cream cheese

Seeds from 2 vanilla pods

450g crème fraîche

4 eggs

2 egg yolks

Method

Preheat the oven to 130°C.
Blitz the digestive biscuits into fine crumbs. Mix thoroughly with the melted butter.
Press the mixture firmly into the base of a lined 23cm springform cake tin. Chill until completely firm.
Melt the white chocolate in over a bain marie (or in a microwave)
Place the melted white chocolate, Wigmore, cream cheese, vanilla and crème fraîche into a blender and blend until completely smooth.
Reduce the speed and gradually add the eggs and yolks, taking care not to incorporate too much air.
Pass the mixture through a fine sieve or chinois.
Pour onto the prepared biscuit base.
Bake at 130°C until almost set. The cheesecake should still retain a slight wobble in the centre when removed from the oven - this will take around 1 hour - 1 hour 15.
Allow to cool completely before refrigerating for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight.

Blueberry compote

Ingredients

500g fresh blueberries

50g caster sugar

Juice of 2 lemons

Small pinch of sea salt

Method

Combine the blueberries, sugar, lemon juice and salt in a bowl.
Leave to macerate in a warm place for approximately 20 minutes.
Transfer to a saucepan and cook over a relatively high heat for 3-4 minutes, stirring regularly.
As the juices reduce, they will begin to lightly caramelise, creating a compote with concentrated flavour whilst retaining some texture.
Allow to cool before serving.

Blueberry sorbet

Ingredients

1kg fresh blueberries

150g caster sugar

100g liquid glucose

Small pinch of sea salt

½ tsp citric acid

Method

Place the blueberries, sugar, glucose, salt and citric acid into a saucepan.
Cover with a lid and cook gently until the blueberries have completely softened and released their juices.
Transfer to a blender and blend until completely smooth.
Pass through a fine sieve or chinois.
Chill thoroughly.
Churn in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Freeze until required (this will produce slightly more sorbet than you need for this recipe)

To serve

Slice the cheesecake into generous portions.

Spoon a little blueberry compote alongside each slice and finish with a rocher of blueberry sorbet.

Chef's Notes

The cheesecake is best made the day before serving so it has a chance to set up in the fridge.

Remove from the fridge 15-20 minutes before slicing.

Use a knife dipped in hot water and wiped dry between cuts for the cleanest finish.

The sorbet is optional, but adds freshness and acidity that balances the richness of the cheesecake beautifully.

If you can’t find Wigmore, I’ve had success with Tunworth, Baron Bigod and goat’s curd - or go all out and use Vacherin for a more pronounced complexity.