Best In Season with Nicholas Balfe - August

 
 
 

Confit Chalk Stream Trout, Soused Kohlrabi & Hung Buttermilk

August is always a rewarding time to cook in Britain. Yes, the excitement of midsummer produce has passed, but that's no bad thing. The season feels almost on the wane and, this year at least, we've enjoyed long spells of high temperatures that have demanded as little time in the kitchen as possible.

As summer begins to round the corner towards harvest, the produce at the markets begin to change, flavours deepen and we start looking to ingredients that bridge the gap between high summer and the cooler months ahead. My dishes in August remain light and vibrant, but there's also an opportunity for a little more process. A return to cooking, if you like. More time to extract flavour, create texture and apply thoughtful technique, whilst still exercising restraint. As ever, my focus is on achieving balance rather than relying on long ingredient lists or unnecessary complexity. Every element should have a purpose.

This month's Best in Season recipe is a perfect example. At first glance it appears deceptively simple: confit trout, soused kohlrabi and seasoned buttermilk. Three principal ingredients, each prepared with care and each bringing something distinct to the plate. Richness, acidity and texture, all working in harmony.

Why Trout?

The dish begins with sustainably farmed Chalk Stream trout, a fish we return to regularly because it ticks so many boxes. Consistent in quality, responsibly produced and versatile enough to take on a range of preparations.

Here, the trout is lightly cured to draw out excess moisture and firm the flesh before being gently smoked over oak. It is then slowly confited beneath a blanket of herb stalks and vegetable trimmings. This protects the fish from drying out whilst also making use of ingredients that might otherwise be discarded.

The result sits somewhere between a traditional confit and a hot-smoked trout. Delicate, flaky and rich, with just enough smoke to add depth without overwhelming the fish itself. Trout also has a wonderful natural fattiness that allows it to stand up to the acidity elsewhere on the plate, creating a balance that feels satisfying without ever becoming heavy.

It's a technique that rewards patience rather than complexity. The curing, smoking and confiting each contribute something subtle, but together they transform an already excellent ingredient into something far greater than the sum of its parts.

Why Kohlrabi Deserves More Attention

Whilst the trout might appear to be the centrepiece, the kohlrabi is every bit as important. In fact, I'd argue it is the ingredient that makes the dish.

Kohlrabi remains one of Britain's most underrated vegetables. Although commonly grown by market gardeners and allotment holders, it rarely receives the attention afforded to more fashionable seasonal produce. That's a shame because few vegetables offer such a distinctive combination of sweetness, crunch and moisture.

We source ours from Merriott Market Garden, just a few miles from the restaurant. Thinly sliced and gently soused with vinegar, shallots, dill and peppercorns, it retains its crisp texture whilst taking on enough acidity to cut through the richness of the fish and dairy.

The pickling liquor softens it ever so slightly, but never to the point where it loses its bite. The result is a vegetable that is simultaneously fresh, sharp and deeply satisfying to eat. In many ways, it plays the same role as a squeeze of lemon might in another dish, but with far more texture and character.

The Beauty of Buttermilk

The final element is buttermilk.

Often overlooked as little more than a by-product of butter making, buttermilk possesses a wonderful lactic acidity that works beautifully with fish. By hanging it overnight, excess whey drains away and the flavour becomes more concentrated whilst the texture thickens to something closer to a soft cream.

That acidity is important. The dish is ultimately about the relationship between richness and freshness, fat and acid. The buttermilk acts as a bridge between the two, connecting the trout and kohlrabi whilst bringing a subtle dairy sweetness of its own.

Finished with freshly grated horseradish, it provides just enough warmth to bring everything together without becoming dominant.

The Pleasure of Discovery

What I particularly enjoy about this dish is the sense of discovery it creates.

At first all you see is a blanket of translucent kohlrabi. Underneath sits the trout, concealed beneath layers of pickle and buttermilk. As you eat, the different elements begin to mingle naturally, creating slightly different combinations in each mouthful.

The acidity of the kohlrabi softens the richness of the trout whilst the buttermilk bridges the gap between the two. The horseradish arrives in little flashes of warmth, whilst the dill and herb oil lift everything with freshness and aroma.

It's also a highly practical dish. Because it is served cold, almost all of the work can be done in advance. Nothing deteriorates particularly quickly and the dish can be plated ahead of service without compromising quality, making it ideal for entertaining, larger gatherings or banqueting.

A Lesson in Restraint

Like many of the dishes we love most at Holm, its success comes not from complexity but from allowing excellent ingredients to speak for themselves.

There are no elaborate garnishes, no unnecessary techniques and no attempt to disguise the ingredients. Every component has a clear purpose. The trout provides richness, the kohlrabi provides acidity and crunch, and the buttermilk provides freshness and balance.

It's a dish that reflects a style of cooking we find ourselves returning to again and again. One that values restraint over addition and confidence over complication.

A reminder that some of the most memorable dishes are often the simplest.

CONFIT CHALK STREAM TROUT, SOUSED KOHLRABI & HUNG BUTTERMILK

Serves 12 

Confit Chalk Stream Trout

Ingredients 

  • 1 side chalk stream trout (approximately 750g)

Cure

  • 240g fine sea salt

  • 160g caster sugar

For Smoking

  • Oak chips

For Confiting

  • Herb stalks and trimmings

  • Vegetable offcuts and peelings

  • Olive oil, as required

Method 

  1. Mix the salt and sugar together and coat the trout generously.

  2. Refrigerate for 2-3 hours.

  3. Rinse thoroughly under cold water and pat dry.

  4. Lightly smoke over oak chips until the fish takes on a gentle smoky aroma.

  5. Place the trout in a tray and cover completely with herb trimmings and vegetable offcuts. Add a little olive oil and cook at 90-120°C until the flesh reaches 40-45°C internally.

  6. Allow to cool completely.

  7. Remove the skin and any bones and flake into large pieces.

 

Soused Kohlrabi 

Ingredients 

  • 5 kohlrabi, peeled

  • 2 shallots

  • 20g dill, chopped

  • Table salt

Pickling Liquor

  • 500g white wine vinegar

  • 400g water

  • 250g caster sugar

  • 10g fine sea salt

  • 5 black peppercorns

Method 

  1. Using a mandolin, finely slice the kohlrabi and shallots.

  2. Season lightly with table salt and leave for 10 minutes to draw out excess moisture.

  3. Transfer to a colander and allow to drain thoroughly.

  4. Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, water, sugar, salt and peppercorns in a saucepan. Bring to the boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved.

  5. Allow the pickling liquor to cool completely.

  6. Pour over the kohlrabi and shallots and fold through the chopped dill.

  7. Leave to pickle for at least 4 hours before serving, preferably overnight.

 

Hung Buttermilk

Ingredients 

  • 1 litre buttermilk

  • Fine sea salt, to taste

Method 

  1. Line a chinois with muslin cloth and place over a container.

  2. Pour in the buttermilk and refrigerate overnight.

  3. Allow the whey to drain away until the buttermilk reaches a thick, pipeable consistency.

  4. Season lightly with salt.

  5. Transfer to a piping bag and refrigerate until required.

To serve 

Ingredients

For each portion:

  • 10g hung buttermilk

  • 40g confit trout

  • 20g soused kohlrabi

  • Fresh dill

  • Fresh horseradish

  • Herb oil

Method

  1. Pipe the buttermilk into the centre of a chilled bowl.

  2. Arrange the trout over the top.

  3. Cover with the soused kohlrabi, allowing the fish to remain mostly concealed beneath.

  4. Finish with fresh dill, microplaned horseradish and a drizzle of herb oil.

  5. Serve chilled.

 

 
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